Why Should You Be Concerned about Wood Dust?

  • Hardwood-Floor-hallway-staris-livingroomWood dust is not something our bodies can process. Wood dust is one of the more common causes of health problems especially lung related conditions.
  • Wood dust can irritate our bodies in many ways, for example breathing exotic wood dust can cause nose bleeds which we have seen happen on a job site. Dust rubbing on your body can cause skin rashes and other health conditions.
  • Wood dust is very hard to clean. We have heard stories about people cleaning their homes months after a sanding job was completed because dust was still settling in parts of the home. Wood dust is fine and light so once airborne it can travel all around your home.
  • A job site that is dirty will only yield a dirty floor finish. How can anyone provide a clean coat of finish when the air is full of dust? One of the most common finish complaints by home owners is debris in the final coat of finish on their wood floors.

The Best Wood Floors for Dog and Cat Owners – Part 2

pets urine stains on hardwood floorHow to use and maintain your wood floors living with dogs and cats in the home.

Dogs and cats are probably the most common pets we all have in our home. Much like any member of our family they spill water, shed hair, scratch the wood floors and just plain wear through the house just living in it. That is part of everybody’s life. Added to the equation is the fact that if not properly trained, pets will urinate on the wood floors and permanently stain the wood.

If you have a dog or a cat and hardwood floors in your home, this blog is to help you understand what your pets do to your floors and how to keep the floors clean and maintained.

Common topics my clients have asked me about:

  • Pets who shed hair on your hardwood floors – This is a pretty easy fix. You can use a vacuum, a broom or a lightly dampened mop. I find it easier to use a damp mop or a micro fiber mop. A lot of the new micro fiber mops will pick up hair and dust without having to spray anything on the wood floors. When the mop is dirty just take it outside and shake it clean.
  • Water spills around their water station – Water and wood do not mix. No matter the finish you have on the floor, water will penetrate through it and will soak in through the floor seams and end joints over time. Water spills and drips in one area on a daily basis will cause discoloration in the wood, stain the wood or cause minor expansion and swelling of the hardwood floors. To keep those from happening, use a dry clean rag or towel to wipe the area daily. I have seen some clients that placed a plastic sheet on the wood floors and that works well.
  • Scratches on your wood floors – dogs and cats, especially large dogs will scratch your wood floors very easily. The heavier the dog the more scratches. A common mistake with site finished floors is for the home owner to move in too soon after the last coat of finish was applied. Since the finish had no time to cure properly the pets would then scratch the wood floors quickly and easily. It is important to try and keep those nails groomed and filed. It is also recommended not to let your 80lb dog run and play inside…

Much like us dogs and cats use and wear our wood floors. Following these simple guidelines will help reduce wear and tear on your floors and keep them clean for all to enjoy.

The Best Wood Floors for Dog and Cat Owners – Part 1

20161020_114247_smMany of us have dogs or cats as part of our family, and as such we let them inside the house on the hardwood floors. Dogs and cats will walk, run and play on the wood floors and much like us humans will cause some damages over the years. Normal use of our wood floors will eventually cause loss of sheen, scratches, dents, stains and discoloration. Having pets in the house often causes early wear and tear and/or excessive scratches. This leads me to guide you through choosing and using your new wood floors.

The first thing you need to remember is that what you are wearing through is the finish on top of the wood floors, not the wood itself. When considering a new hardwood floors, remember that you don’t need the hardest wood in the world. Unless you drop hammers on the floor every day you don’t really need a floor like let’s say Ipe’ or Strand Woven Bamboo.

The second thing to remember is what the plan for the near future is; Are you going to sell the home? Are you staying there for a while and might need to be able to refinish the floors?

The third and last thing to ask yourself is what kind of pet do you have? Is it a small dog or a big heavy dog that will scratch the floor finish easily? Is it a puppy which urinates everywhere and will stain the wood?

Let’s discuss these issues and figure out which wood is best for you:

  • If choosing a prefinished product buy a higher quality floor, usually the more you pay the better the finish. If you choose a site finished product make sure your contractor uses commercial finishes and not DIY cheap one component finishes. I recommend using a site finished product because of many reasons, the main one being – you can add one or two extra coats for more protection. That was easy, right?
  • If you are selling the home in less than ten years then you’ll need to make sure your hardwood floor can be refinished or recoated before you sell it. Nobody wants to buy a home with a beat up wood floor that needs work or cannot be serviced. If you bought a prefinished floor that cannot be sanded because of a thin veneer or because of a Teflon like coating then you have a problem. If you chose a solid site finished product then you can easily repair and sand it, and most likely change the color/sheen.
  • Important: no finish is impermeable – meaning if your dog urinates on the floor or a water spill stays on the floor it will eventually penetrate through the finish and stain the wood. The stain cannot be sanded off. The solution to this is preventing by training your pets, there is really nothing you can do with wood floors to protect them from liquid damage.

To summarize, choose a floor that is versatile in service and use. Don’t choose something too soft like Fir and you don’t have to use an exotic wood like Ipe’. There are many options for you out there like White Oak, Red Oak, Maple, Brazilian Cherry, European Oak and more. Do your research and make sure that in the end, you hire and consult a professional. In the next part I will discuss how to use and maintain your hardwood floors with pets in the home.

Which is the Best finish for my Wood Floors?

Sanded-Hardwood-FloorsWe all want to protect our wood floors with the best finish available so we don’t have to do it all over again, right? Most our clients who choose to install new hardwood floors in the East Bay are concerned about the future of their floors. One client in Berkeley, CA asked me what finish would be best living with a big dog in the house. Another one in El Cerrito wanted to know what finish would protect their wood floors from water damage. The answer to this question is very simple: choose a professional to apply a commercial finish on your floor, maintain it properly and you should be fine. There is no one magic floor finish that does it all, after all we all walk on these finishes every day.

There are many choices of finish out there, here is a table exploring some of the characteristics of the main finishes used in the wood flooring market these days:

Finish Type

Color

Approximate Drying Time

Approximate Cure Time

Aging Color

Approximate VOC

Pros

Cons

Oil Base Urethane

Amber

overnight

7 days

Amber

500 g/L

Durable, ages nicely, easy to repair

Strong smell, dries slowly

Water Base Urethane

Clear

3-4 hours

Approximately 80% in 3 days

yellow

210 g/L

Durable, lower VOC, dries and cures fast

Results vary depend on product

Wax Oil Blend

All colors

overnight

7 days

Depends on color

zero

Easy to maintain, no VOC

No resin build up on the floor like oil and water finishes

Staining Wood Before Finishing

All colors

3-4 hours for light colors overnight for dark colors

7 days

N/A

550 g/L

n/

n/a

All finishes require regular maintenance.

All finishes will scratch.

All finishes will wear with regular use overtime.

All finishes can be repaired or restored with different results.

There is no magic product that cures in a day and will never need refinishing. It all comes down to which look you like and how you would be using the floors. Applied correctly all finishes will stand the test of time.

Which finish should I use on my wood floors

Water-base-on-Brazilian-cherry

Water base on Brazilian cherry

When you get estimates to refinish your hardwood floors you get different opinions from contractors. I often hear from customers things like “the other contractor told me oil base is better than water base”. Each contractor will tell you a different story about which finish you should put on your floors. Which finish or contractor should you choose? It is crucial that you understand a major principal: It is never just the finish you put down that counts.

A good finish is a result of not only a good product but a few more factors:

  • How the wood surface was prepared; what sanding sequence and which machines were used.
  • The person applying the finish – was he/she following the instructions like spread rate and drying conditions.
  • The finish itself – you can never get a good finished floor with a cheap inferior product.
  • The right finish for the right floor.
  • The right finish for the right customer (future use). I will recommend one finish for a young family with kids and a different one for an older couple without kids or pets.

When you debate whether or not you should put oil base, water base, wax or oil on the floor make sure you get the facts, not just opinions. The contractor you are about to hire should have the experience, education, credentials and most importantly the same standards as you.

How to work with “hard to work with” woods?

Tigerwood-install-225x300They have weird names that are hard to pronounce. They come from countries you didn’t know existed (let’s face it – you didn’t). Everyone hates working with them: you, your nailers, your saw blades, even your finish! Yes, I’m talking about exotic woods. In our trade we are familiar with names like Brazilian Cherry, I’pe, and Padauk which are more readily available. Some woods are so rare and expensive they are sold by weight like Cocobolo (see it in my last video about wood anatomy) and Lignum Vitae. You can find those at your local hardwood lumber store.

My first experience with Ipe was not good. My fasteners kept bending or breaking, my carbide blade on my miter saw was dull after a day and one of my employees had an allergic reaction to the dust. Exotic woods have become a part of every installer’s life. When I say exotics I refer to woods that are extremely dense, hard and rich in oils, silica or resins.

So, how working with exotics is different from working with let’s say Oak? Well, first thing is first right? I mean after safety. Acclimation and preparation: Your average oak will gain or lose a moisture point in a week. Not your average exotic. One of the former technical directors with the Nwfa told me a story about a museum installation of Ipe he had to do. He had acclimated the wood on site for two months before he was “forced” to install it. And still the wood was not where he wanted it to be. My point is that exotics (or any other hard and dense wood or strand woven grass) will need to be on site under estimated future living conditions for weeks at a minimum.

Next – installing: Cutting and nailing that exotic wood. You should use a cleat nailer to fasten exotic floors because your average ½” (1.3 cm) crown staple will split the tongue. This will create movement related issues with the floor. Some manufacturers make an 18 gauge cleat nailers (instead of 16) which are specifically designed for fastening hard and dense woods. If you are not used to spending $60 to $80 on a miter saw blade now is the time. The resins and silica in those woods will dull your blade quickly anyway, you might as well start with a quality blade (if you are a craftsman in my book you already have at least $600 worth of blades anyway, at least).

All of your power tools should be professional grade (and I don’t mean it looks professional, I mean professional). Trying to rip an Ipe’ board on a $100 table saw will be unsafe, slow and maybe impossible.

If you need to face or hand nail in some places pre drill your floor boards. You will find that pushing the drill through the wood is going to heat up your drill bit and break it. I learnt the hard way to let the bit do its’ job slowly, much like drilling into metal. If you attempt to face nail without pre drilling your nail will bend. Either way, trying to get a bent fastener out of a Cumaru board for example is an impossible task.

assembling-hardware-on-the-crib-300x225Sanding and finishing: here is a dilemma = I should start with a 36 grit because this is a really hard wood but, because it is such a hard wood how in the world am going to take those scratches out? Well, you are right. Better to start with 50 or 60 and change your abrasive frequently instead of starting with 36 or 40. Trying to get scratches out of Ipe’ is like trying to…well…let’s not even go there.

Finishing – First rule – no oil modified finishes. Second rule – seal it the day you are done sanding.

There’s much more to be said about exotics. I will probably dedicate some blog posts in the future about specific woods. Thank you for reading and as usual,  I hope I helped someone, somewhere somehow.